May 14, 2012

10 Top Tips for Setting up a Nano Tank

10 Top Tips for Setting up a Nano Tank

 

Some people who live by themselves are quite content, but others are lonesome. If you are one of the lonesome people and you are allergic to the usual house pets, they are not good choices for you. Some people keep birds, but there is another alternative. If you live in a small apartment, you can set up a nano aquarium. You will not have to worry about a cat clawing your furniture or walking a dog when it’s cold and wet. You can avoid these problems by setting up a nano tank. Nano aquariums are small versions of regular-sized aquariums. They are usually saltwater tanks with a capacity of one to 10 gallons depending on the size of the tank. The water quality in a nano aquarium must be kept in balance in order to maintain good bacteria to aid the tank’s filtration system. Too many fish can upset the balance of the tank’s environment. Allow the tank cycle to build a natural filter and become active before introducing other fish or invertebrates.

Learn all you can about nano aquariums by thoroughly researching the subject. You need to know all about nano aquariums: how to set them up, what species of fish are suitable inhabitants, where to place a tank in your home and learn how to maintain to tank after setting up and populating your tank. Now wouldn’t a couple of fish be a little company?

nano tankYour Nano Tank Shopping List Should Include:
  • Tank, size of your choice
  • Cover for the tank with an attached light
  • Appropriate capacity filter and pump
  • Sea salt
  • Standard aquarium heater
  • Appropriate gravel and sand
  • Food for your fish
  • Nitrates and nitrites
  • Ammonia test kit

 

1. Look around the room where you plan to locate your aquarium. Determine exactly where to place the tank and stand and decide on an appropriate sized tank for your room. You will probably want to locate the tank away from direct sunlight. The sun may heat the water to the detriment of your fish.

2. Measure the dimensions of the spot where you have decided to place the tank. Write down those measurements and take them with you when you shop for your tank. Living in an apartment, you probably have space for only a small tank. Look at the floor model display of aquariums to get an idea of how one will fit in your space. Measure the tanks to determine which one will be an appropriate fit.

3. Select your tank and appropriate filter and pump. Nano aquariums require pumps with a higher flow rate than larger aquariums. You need a pump capable of turning over the water in the tank seven to 10 times per hour. That means the pump of a 1 gallon tank should have a flow rate of seven to 10 gallons every hour.

4. Dissolve the salt in the water, and then pour saltwater into your tank. Read the instructions that came with the salt and the tank. Bring water to the recommended salinity level, for the creatures you plan to introduce to your aquarium. If you are using chlorinated water, you will need a de-chlorinator to remove the chlorine from the water.

5. Place the submersible heater on the side or bottom of the tank. Set the temperature to the recommended level for the creatures you plan to add to the tank. Carefully place the cover on the tank and give the heater a few hours to warm the water. Regulate the heater to attain the needed temperature and recheck again the following day. Now you are well on your way to setting up your nano tank.

6. Patience, patience, patience. Take your time and don’t rush to finish your project. It takes patience to get the temperature set at the correct level and to get all the equipment adjusted right.

7. Following your instructions, set up and attach the pump and filter. Hook up the hoses necessary to operate the pump and filter and turn them on. Verify the water temperature. Frequently pumps and other equipment can raise the temperature in the tank. It may be necessary to alter the temperature setting of the heater to counteract the increased heat.

8. Add gravel and living sand, which has organisms to aid in filtering, to the aquarium water. At this point, you have probably purchased live sand; if not, you can get a little bit live sand from an operating aquarium to add to your own tank. Add from about half inch to several inches of sand to your tank. If you decide to use several inches of sand, be sure to obtain a few of the small, varied species of worms that act as detritivores to aid in the natural filtering capacity of the live sand.

9. Let the tank run to cycle the water. For about two weeks, put just a few fish food in the tank every day. The live sand or the aquarium filter will break down the food as microorganisms in the tank flourish and multiply. Cut down on the quantity of food going into the tank if the water becomes cloudy. The cycling sequence encourages the biological filtration to sustain healthy environment for fish and invertebrates.

10. Periodically check the nitrogen cycle by using a commercially available test kit. Monitoring levels of ammonia and nitrogen is a must for a healthy balance for fish. Follow your instructions to verify that the tank’s natural filtration is correct, only then should you start adding fish and invertebrates. Inevitably some of the water in the tank will evaporate, and you will need to add de-chlorinated freshwater to top off the tank. Again, de-chlorinate your water if necessary. Keep check on the salinity of the water; you will occasionally need to add a little saltwater to maintain the nitrogen balance.

nano tank for marine fish

You can enjoy watching your favorite fish swim around in their new aquarium. You have diligently completed the task of setting up a nano tank. All is peaceful and quiet, and the only sound to bother you is the sound of Charlie the Tuna bumping the side of the aquarium with his nose.

For more information about setting up your nano tank contact us here We are always happy to help: )

Perry's Aquatic Centre - 6 Market Rasen Road, Dunholme, Lincoln LN2 3QR
Call us on: +44(0)16738 60727
Nano Tank

April 8, 2012

How to Choose Aquarium Lights

How to Choose Aquarium Lights

A healthy fish needs a good aquatic set up and this includes aquarium lights. However, what kind of lighting should you use? You see, the purpose of lighting is to simulate the lighting conditions in the ocean. Just like humans and other animals, fish cannot live 24 hours a day under bright lights, if this need is not met, your fish is likely to be unhealthy. Good lighting conditions will increase reproduction and will help make your fish less stressed.

 aquarium lights

First, determine the set-up of your aquarium. If your aquarium has shaded regions, then you need to factor in this thing when lighting is in discussion. In some aquariums, 12 hours of daylight is not needed. Keep in mind that at night, aquariums should have a minimal amount of light to simulate the light in the ocean during full moon. There is no total darkness at sea so you should also not shut down the light in your aquarium. What you need to do is to use LED lights because these are the best kinds of nocturnal lights.

 

For reef aquariums, you may use acitinic lights. These are kinds of lights that have UV wavelengths. These UV lights penetrate the water and this makes it easy for corals and other invertebrates to absorb light.

 

Lastly, you need to study something about light temperature. This is measured in Kelvin and ideally, you should choose between 5500K-2000K. The Letter K is the unit measurement of Kelvin. It is strongly recommended that you consult experts before buying lights because you might be putting wrong ones that can result to algae growth, which is just as harmful to your aquarium.

for more advice about aquarium lighting, contact us here.

PERRY’S AQUATIC CENTRE

THE BUNGALOW 6 MARKET RASEN ROAD DUNHOLME LINCOLN LN2 3QR

TEL No. +44(0)1673 860727

How to Choose Aquarium Lights

December 11, 2011

Christmas And New Year Operating Times

Season Greetings

 

It’s that time of year again,

Yes it’s Christmas. Time to ring in the changes, eat lots of turkey and then relax in front of your aquarium!

We have had another great year at Perry’s Aquatic Centre largely due to your continued support and loyalty. We really appreciate it!: )

We will continue to strive to provide an even better service to you in the New Year. You comments and feedback are most welcome.

If you are looking for some great last minute (fish net) stocking fillers visit our online superstore for aquarium books and accessories. Click here now!

We would like to take this opportunity to wish all our friends, customers and suppliers a Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year.

See you all again soon in 2012,

Wayne ‘Humbug‘ Perry

Here are our opening times during the festive season through to the New Year.

Christmas Eve – Open from 10am – 4pm
Christmas Day – Closed
Boxing Day – Closed
Tuesday 27 December – Closed as usual
Wednesday 28 December- Open as usual until NYE
New Years Eve – Open 10am – 4pm
New Years Day – Closed
Monday 2 January – Closed as usual
Tuesday 3 January -Closed as usual

Wednesday 3 January – Open for Business as usual 2012

 

Lets be social – Follow us on Twitter and Like us on Facebook

Perry's Aquatic Centre - 6 Market Rasen Road, Dunholme Lincoln LN2 3QR Contact us here.

November 19, 2011

Understanding the Berlin Method of Marine Filtration

Understanding the Berlin Method of Marine Filtration

 

The Berlin Method of marine filtration was developed in the 1970’s by the Berlin Aquarium Club. The Berlin method of marine filtration is based on the natural system aquarium which was developed by Lee Chin Eng in 1961.

The Berlin method of marine filtration is the method used for keeping your saltwater aquarium clean and maintaining a stable environment. This usually applies to a coral reef set up, but not always it is just the most common.

The Berlin method of marine filtration relies heavily on using a lot of live rock in your aquarium.

The theory behind the Berlin method of filtration is that the aerobic bacterium which covers the exterior of the porous live rock and the deep sand bed will convert the very toxic ammonia into nitrites. Although nitrites are less harmful to your aquarium then ammonia is they are still toxins. The next step in the Berlin method of marine filtration is the nitrates will travel deep into the live rock in your aquarium. Here the nitrites are changed by the anaerobic bacteria into nitrogen gas.

The Berlin method of marine filtration still requires you to do weekly water changes as this will get rid of the rest of the toxins that get left over as the Berlin Method of filtration cannot possibly get rid of all toxins.

A protein skimmer is also still a good idea even when the Berlin Method of marine filtration is in place. This will help to remove some of the left over organic compounds that have dissolved. This then does not give them the chance to breakdown and turn into ammonia.

For the Berlin method of marine filtration to work your tank needs to adhere to certain rules. You could try your own way but why gamble ? A tried and tested method will give you the best results. You should typically use 1 to 2 pounds of live rock to every 4 litres of water in your aquarium. This does depend slightly on the density of the live rock which you are using. If you can’t use so much live rock then you could consider just filling your tank two thirds of the way. This will help the Berlin method of marine filtration to work.

There are four benefits of using live rock alongside the Berlin method of filtration. These are:

1.     The live rock will act as a biological filter inside your aquarium, thus adding beneficial bacteria.

2.     It will introduce a large quantity of marine life into your aquarium. This marine life will be used for food by many fish, corals and invertebrates.

3.     It gives your tank a natural reef look and has lots of places where you can put your corals.

4.     Live rock will naturally help to balance the PH in your aquarium making the PH a lot more stable.

The Berlin method of marine filtration requires very strong lighting. So make sure you research this when purchasing a light, as a weak light will make sure that the Berlin method of filtration will fail in your aquarium.

Calcium supplements are need with the Berlin method of marine filtration. This is done through the use of kalkwasser (limewater). The added bonus of using kalkwasser is that it will lower the amount of phosphates in your aquarium water as well. You must take care when using kalkwasser as it has a very high PH of 12. When using it in the Berlin method of marine filtration you should put it into your tank using a drip at night. This will avoid the PH of your aquarium rising suddenly. It is important not to mix too much at once.

Other calcium supplements can be used in the Berlin method of marine filtration, for example, the two parts balanced solutions.

The Berlin method of filtration also requires trace element supplements, specifically strontium and iodide. Some people also choose to supplement magnesium but this is not a necessity.

Good water movement is also critical in the Berlin method of marine filtration. The life that is kept in salt water aquariums come from the sea. So they are used to very powerful currents, which we are unable to replicate exactly. However we can get close and should try to get it as close as possible for the survival of our aquariums. In the Berlin method of marine filtration the most important reason for good water movement is to move the nitrogenous waste so that the nitrifying and de-nitrifying bacteria can get to it.

Using the Berlin method of marine filtration within an aquarium is fairly easy to set up and to maintain. Especially when using good quality live rock. Your aquarium could be set up within a day. Once you have set up your tank however patience is required, so your tank can take shape and the cycles in your tank can start to take place.

When using the Berlin method of marine filtration you should have your live rock in a loose arrangement so that it allows for good water flow. This helps to prevent wastes settling on your deep sand bed.

Mechanical filtration is considered a major don’t with the Berlin method of marine filtration. It will take out food from your aquarium and is not as effective as a skimmer is.

You need to make sure you still do water changes. These can be done either weekly or monthly. If you do them weekly you should do around 10 percent at a time. If you choose to do them monthly you should do around a 25 percent change. This will keep you water condition like it should be. If when you test your water you notice the toxin levels are more than they should be you should increase the water changes. You will need to do them every 3 to 4 days and around 20 percent each time until the water has returned to normal.

If you would like your water testing for free please visit Perry’s Aquatic Centre. We offer this service along with our professional knowledge. We are ready to give advice and answer any questions you might have.

Perry's Aquatic Centre 6 Market Rasen Road, Dunholme, Lincoln LN2 3QR Tel: 016738 60727

October 27, 2011

How to Use Live Rock as a Filter

How to Use Live Rock as a Filter

When you are going to use live rock as a filter in your tank you will need to know a bit about the live rock and how it works. This way you will then be able to use the live rock as a filter in the best way possible as you will have all the knowledge you need.

To start with, live rock is not actually alive as you might think. Live rock is actually pieces off a coral reef. They could have been broken off the coral reef by any natural means like a hurricane or a tropical storm.  It is called live rock as it contains living and dead organisms. Examples of these organisms are: algae, marine worms, bacteria and small crustaceans such as crabs. These organisms will make the live rock their home making the rock very beneficial in a tank. Lincoln Aquatics

The most important thing about live rock is that it is porous. Being porous makes using live rock as a filter very easy. It is a natural biological filter. You are able to use live rock as a filter because bacteria live on the rock in the tiny holes which the live rock has.

Live rock helps new tank systems in getting set up. They do this as the bacteria living on them help to get rid of the ammonia and evens out the toxins in your water. This then makes it better and easier for the live rock and fish to live in. You will still need to test your water condition regularly though. Using live rock as a filter does not, however, guarantee low toxin levels; it just helps to achieve them. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be 0. The PH of your tank should be between 8.2 and 8.4. The temperature of your tank should be kept between 82 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Keeping the water to these guidelines will keep your live rock healthy, stress free and keep it working as a filter.

When using live rock as a filter the main thing that you need to realise is that you need to keep them healthy and disease free. The live rock is a natural filter so does not need help to become one. However if the live rock becomes ill with a disease or starts to die, its use as a filter will also deteriorate.

Also if you are using live rock as a filter instead of buying one there a few things that you will need to make sure your tank has. The first is pump heads. These are need for the water movement in your tank, as a mechanical filter would have done this job also. The pump heads will keep the water moving and mimic that of the sea. This will mean that you can use live rock as a filter instead of a mechanical one.

Another thing to consider buying if you are planning on using live rock as a filter is a skimmer. A skimmer is a useful thing to have to help with water condition. The skimmer will collect particles from your water in there foam pads. Once it has removed the particles from the water they will start to decompose. Usually with a mechanical filter this decomposition can have a drastic effect on the condition of your water. This will then Increase the amount of ammonia and nitrates. However with a skimmer the particles are kept in a collection cup therefore no matter how much they decompose it will not re enter the water in your tank.

To make sure using live rock as a filter is successful you need to make sure you have enough live rock for the size of your tank. You will need around 1 to 2 pounds of live rock per gallon of water in your tank. This will make sure you have enough live rock so that it works effectively as a filter. live rock

You will need to make sure you feed your live rock correctly in order for it to maintain stress free and thus working effective as your tanks filter. Feeding will differ depending on what type of live rock you are using as your filter. The bacteria living on the live rock will feed off waste products in your tank. Some will feed off the light used in your tank by photosynthesising. Others will need small fish, krill, squid are just a few examples.

Special lighting is needed in your tank to keep live rock as a filter. The lighting also differs depending on which live rock you have in your tank. You should research the different types of live rock and what their individual requirements are for the best results.

Regular water changes are needed when keeping live rock as a filter. I would recommend doing a water change about once a week. This water change should be about 10 to 20 percent. This will help with the water condition and other problems such as algae. If the toxin levels in your water are higher than they should be then completing a water change more often (say around every 3 days) will help to bring this back under control and stop your tank from getting too disrupted.

In conclusion using live rock as a filter is very easy as it does the job naturally on its own. The main problems are keeping the live rock healthy, which is the same problem even if it is not being used as a filter.

If you need any help or advice on using live rock as a filter why not visit Perry’s Aquatic Centre. Here you can talk to professionals with many years of experience. They offer excellent customer service and are always happy to help no matter how big or small the problem might be. They also offer free water testing and will advise if your water condition is not what it should be. They have all the right chemicals to put you on the right track.

September 5, 2011

Perry’s 10 Tips to Setting up a Planted Aquarium

Perry’s 10 Tips to Setting up a Planted Aquarium

A large aquarium containing live plants you saw in the lobby of an office building caused you to start thinking. You felt so relaxed and peaceful while watching the brightly colored fish swimming among the waving plants. You think your family could benefit from having such an aquarium. You have plenty of room for one in your family room. It would not hurt to engage in a little research about setting up a planted aquarium. You need information on the basic materials that go into a tanks and tank maintenance.

planted aquarium - lincolnA planted aquarium, which has been correctly assembled and well maintained, provides a natural, healthy environment for your tank’s inhabitants. Live plants will lend natural elements to your freshwater aquarium. Your shopping list should include an aquarium, de-chlorinated water or a de-chlorinating additive for tap water, aquarium lighting equipment, pH and hardness test kits, several types of aquatic plants and substrate gravel. When you have your aquarium tank assembled and in a suitable spot in your den, you are ready to add your plants; the following tips might help you with the task of creating your planted aquarium.

1. Purchase an iron-rich, fine-grained substrate of high quality. This particular choice is one of the most important that you will need to make. The foundation of any healthy aquarium is the substrate. This is especially true in the case of a planted aquarium. Purchase the best that you can find. The nutrients for many of your plants will come from the substrate.

2. Place 3 inches of substrate on the bottom of your tank. The bottom layer should be fluorite gravel, which will offer iron and other nutrients. Add regular aquarium gravel to cover the first layer. Use finer-grained gravel to cover the substrate in the tank, and then finish with sand or very fine gravel. Other people’s experiences indicate that you will need 1.5 to 2 pounds of substrate for every gallon of water.

3. Carefully add de-chlorinated water or tap water treated with a de-chlorinating additive to the tank. If you have any qualms about the quality of your tap water, use distilled water from an aquarium store. If you think that pouring water into the tank will displace any of the gravel, sita small plate on the bottom of the tank and pour the water onto the plate. Pour enough water in the tank to bring it to within one or two inches of the rim of the aquarium. This should leave enough room to add your decorative rocks and other baubles.

4. Heater and filtration systems probably came with the tank when you bought your aquarium package. It’s time to add the heater and filtration systems to the tank if you haven’t already done so. Be sure to use an external filter designed to hang on the side of the tank. If the filter included in your package is not an external filter, you need to exchange it. Under-gravel filters are not recommended for use in aquariums containing plants. Set the thermostat on the heater between 72 to 82 degrees.

5. Using the test kit to check the pH and hardness of water make the necessary adjustments in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The pH should run between 6.5 and 7.5. You may need to add a water conditioner to achieve the recommended pH level.

6. The light attachment usually included with aquarium packages is not strong enough for your plants. Your aquarium requires 2 to 3 watts for each gallon of water. A 55-gallon aquarium needs at least 110 watts of lighting. Increase the wattage according to the size of your tank. When setting up a planted aquarium, full-spectrum compact fluorescent lights are preferred.

7. Oh boy! Now it’s time to select the plants for your aquarium. Consult with the experts in your aquarium supply store for recommendations of plants which will flourish. If this is your first planted aquarium, use all the help you can get. Pick out an assortment of plant sizes and varieties. You have a choice among the different types of available aquatic plants: rosettes, floating plants, bulbs, stem plants and rhizomes (ferns and mosses). aquarium plants - lincoln

8. On a table or the floor, make a pleasing arrangement by placing the tallest plants in the back and the shortest plants toward the front. You can play with the placement until you have an arrangement that you like. Putting a few shorter plants in the back will look more natural and give an illusion of depth.

9. When you decide that you like the arrangement, add the plants to the tank. Your experts told you all you need to know, so you are familiar with your plant varieties. To help the stem plants take root in the substrate, use special weights from the aquarium store, rock or driftwood. Set your rosette plants by burying the roots in the substrate exposing a little of the root. Plant the rhizomes as deeply as possible leaving no exposed root. Tubers and bulbs do best when they sit with half the bulb visible. Use aquarium weights as recommended to hold all of these varieties in place until they are established in their new habitat.

10. Your aquarium plants will need to be fed, and one essential constituent is carbon. Give your plants a few weeks to get established. By this time they will require nutrients on a regular basis. Plenty of supplements are available commercially, however, adding a couple of fish to your aquarium can provide some of these nutrients. Check with your aquarium experts on the feasibility of adding fish.

The novelty of the aquarium has worn off, and it is time to face the realization that a little maintenance comes with your aquarium. De-chlorinated water must be added to the tank occasionally. Search the internet, or consult with your new best friends at Perry’s Aquatic Centre – Lincoln, for information about maintaining aquariums.

How to set up a planted aquarium

August 8, 2011

Top 10 Tips to Building a Pond

Top 10 Tips to Building a Pond

Your spouse has mentioned that she would like to have a pond in the garden. The weekend has arrived so you can occupy your time by building a pond. How hard can it be to dig a hole and fill it with water? You have visited the local gardening shop to pick up some information on building ponds and landscaping. You’ve looked over the information and believe you are ready to get your shovel and start digging. If you’re lucky, your helpmate will stick around to help.

1. Measure the area for your pond. When digging the hole for the pond, make it a little larger than measured to allow for several layers of lining materials. Sloping sides rather than steep will ensure that your lining materials won’t slide out of position. Use a thin layer of sand or underlay on all sides of the hole before adding the liner. Doing so will stop stones or roots from tearing holes in the liner and causing leaks.

2. Make several small holes in the bottom of the pond before adding the underlay and liner. These holes mark the spots where you want to set plants. Add the underlay and liner then set the plants, still in pots, into the small holes. Cover the bottom of the pond with a layer of prewashed river sand. The last layer to be added to the pond is a layer of pebbles to cover the sand. Your plants look as though they are actually planted in the pond. No one is aware that you were too lazy to take the plants out of the pots.

Pond fish3. To make the pond look as though a natural rock barrier is holding the water in the pond, build a shelf rimming the pond. Create a ledge around the edge of the pond about 3 inches below the desired water level. Add the rocks and backfill with soil. Now it looks like a natural pond.

4. If you like to watch wildlife, create a sand covered beach on one area side of the pond. The beach should have a gradual slope into the water where the wildlife can access the water. Try to provide an area where birds have a view from the beach and can see if the neighbor’s cat is sneaking up on them.

5. The secret to building a really durable pond is to plaster the liner with 1 to 1.25 inches of mortar. A mix of 1 part cement,1 part building sand and 2 parts river sand add a waterproofing agent. Make the mix pliable by using only enough water so you can work the mixture. You will need to line the pond with this mixture in one go. If you stop after beginning to spread the mixture over the pond lining then start again, you will create a weak spot in the lining.

6. To build a durable pond that will not leak, use mortar to line the pond and take these extra precautions. Different materials expand and contract at different rates. Over time, cracks will appear between the rocks and mortar on the rim of the pond, and eventually leaks will occur. You can build a pond for your garden with natural rock that won’t crack.

After applying the mortar to the pond lining, spread a thick layer of mortar on the ledge where the rocks are to be placed. Next lay plastic wrap over the mortar and place the rocks on the plastic pushing down firmly on each rock to imprint the shape of the rocks into the mortar. Take away the rocks and plastic after giving the mortar a chance to dry. Store the rocks in sequential order so that you can put them back in the same order.

Spread a nontoxic silicone sealant over the mortar and place each rock in its own imprint. Noone will be able to see the seal. If you don’t use a nontoxic sealant, any fish you introduce to the pond will die.

The rocks are now permanently affixed, and the pond is leak free. Wait until the silicone is completely dry before you add water to the pond. This method takes a lot of patience, but is worth doing.

cold water fish7. If you are installing a fountain, you need a pump that is the recommended size for your pond. When picking out a pump for your pond, considering buying one a size larger than you need. You can reduce the flow if it’s too fast. If you get a pump and the flow is too slow, you cannot increase the flow. Use a piece of nylon stocking, or double folded cheesecloth, over the pump intake. This will prevent dirt getting into the pump. This will extend the life of your pump. Check the piece of fabric often and replace as needed.

8. You might want to place a piece of decorative statuary or large plant in front of your ugly pump. If your wife has to look at the unsightly pump, she won’t be happy. It will cancel out the natural look of her garden pond. Consider camouflaging the water outlet by letting the water bubble from under some pebbles.

9. To make the pond look more natural, use three different sizes of pebbles. You can place a few bigger rocks randomly in the pond. A nice rock sticking above the water will give birds a spot to land.

10. Your pond will remain healthy if you add water every couple of weeks. You can add an overflow area by digging a hole and lining it with an extra piece of pond liner. Using a pitch fork, punch some holes in the lining and fill the hole with bog material.

Perhaps you and your wife can sit in her romantic garden and dream about future projects for the garden, or how about building a pond in front of the house?

For more information about building a pond for your garden, or if you require pond plants and fish contact Wayne at Perry’s Aquatic Centre near Lincoln. He has over 20 years experience of fish keeping and is always happy to help.

July 10, 2011

Top 10 Tips for Setting Up a Marine Fish Tank

Top 10 Tips for Setting Up a Marine Fish Tank

Several friends have tropical aquariums, but you are a non-conformist. You are planning a marine fish tank. You have made a list, shopped, and double checked that you purchased all the necessary equipment. Read all your instructions before beginning work on your aquarium; reread, if necessary. As you begin your assembly, here are some tips to help with the task of setting up a marine fish tank.

marine fish tank

1.     Move your stand to where you want it to sit in your home. Be sure that it is level and has enough clearance for equipment and that the electrical connections will not make contact with the water. Use freshwater and soft cloth to clean the tank. If you want to decorate the back of the tank, now is the time to do it.

2.     Your top-off system, if you are planning to use one, should be installed before attaching the sump and placing the tank on the stand. When installing the sump equipment, be sure to add the accompanying materials to the wet/dry trickle filter. Connect the ends of the overflow hose to the tank and the sump. Connect the return pump and hose; consider installing an adjustable valve to control the water flow. Now move the aquarium tank to the stand adding a pad under the tank if necessary.

3.     It’s time to install the remaining aquarium equipment, but do not add the lighting system until after the substrate, sea salts and decorations are in place. Connect the sump mounted skimmer and the aquarium heater. Connect the power strip/light timer and attach the filtration system and power heads.

4.     Run a wet test of the system to verify everything has been properly connected, is in working order and there are no leaks. Find any problems before adding the sea salts, substrate or live rock to the tank. Make sure all hose connections are tight. Fill the tank and sump with freshwater. Dry off the tank exterior, plug all power cords into the power strip, turn on the power strip and make sure none of the connections is leaking. Check the protein skimmer for bubbles and test the corresponding pump. Simulate a power outage by turning off the power strip. If water overflows from the sump, turn on the pump again and take some water from the sump. Turn the power back on and retest.

5.     When you are satisfied that there are no leaks, turn off the system and remove several gallons of water from the tank and the sump. Add the substrate to the tank. The sea salts are added next; pour the sea salts into the sump and turn on the return pump to circulate water over the sea salts to help dissolve them. Add sea salt and test until you see the recommended salinity level register. If you are using “live sand,” pour it in the tank. The water will turn cloudy but will clear up after you start the filtration system. Non?live sand needs to be rinsed with freshwater when setting up a marine fish tank.

6.     You are ready to add clean cured live rock to the aquarium and to begin your aquascaping. If you are using uncured live rock, take the time to clean the rock in clear water. Run the tank again by turning on all equipment: the pumps, filters and protein skimmer. The water should start clearing up when the filters remove the fine particles from the water. You can add your little creatures to the tank in the following week.

7.     While waiting for the water to clear, you can add the lighting for your tank system. Lighting requirements are flexible for aquariums containing only fish. Day and night cycles can be preset on a timer, so your fish have a period of darkness for sleeping. You could install a light for reef tanks at this point, if you are planning to add corals in the future. Reef lighting has higher requirements. Corals require certain periods of light and a spectrum of light. The light fixture can be attached inside the hood or on top of the tank. Plug the light fixture into your light timer and set the trippers on the timer for the light/dark cycles. Let there be light!

8.     Once the water in the tank has cleared, it’s time to add your wildlife. Do not add too many fish at a time, especially at the beginning. Give the aquarium’s filter time to build up a solid biological base of good bacteria. Start with a couple of small fish. They will provide ammonia to start multiplying the bacteria and to populate the filter. Find out the best fish to help this process, and check out a chart of saltwater fish compatibility. You can get nitrifying bacteria to help with nitrification. Be sure to use the recommended amount of nitrifying bacteria at the suggested intervals. Turn off your protein skimmer during this period to help the bacteria build up in the filter.

Hermit crabs and snails help to control waste and algae. Slowly introduce new arrivals to your aquarium. If you chose reef tank lighting, you can add corals if you wish. A little research will help with your coral selection because coral are sensitive to their surroundings.

9.     Your fish may eventually become bored and need a change of scene. Accommodate them by adding more fish or other creatures for company. When the water level drops, add freshwater. Frequently check ammonia levels and general water quality. Watch the fish for frayed fins, a lack of appetite and cloudy eyes which are indications that the fish are stressed. Do not add creatures until your wildlife recovers. New fish may fall victim to parasites, therefore, prepare yourself to counter the conditions.

10. You have a responsibility to these little critters now that you have your nonconformist’s aquarium up and running. Try not to disturb the biologic filter during the first month. After the first month of setting up the marine fish tank, initiate a schedule for maintaining your tank.

Jess Hayes & Wayne Perry

For free help and advice pop into Perry’s Aquatic Centre near Lincoln. We’ll even test your water for free so remember to bring in a fresh sample from your aquarium.

June 6, 2011

How to Keep Clown Fish in an Aquarium

How to Keep Clown Fish in an Aquarium


Following the famous Disney movie Finding Nemo everyone wants their own little “Nemo”. For this reason keeping clown fish in an aquarium is becoming a lot more popular. More and more people are asking how do I keep a clown fish in my aquarium.

Clown fish

When keeping clown fish in an aquarium you may want to keep them with host anemones otherwise they may not survive. This depends on the species of clown fish which you choose to keep. The real task with clown fish in an aquarium is keeping the host anemones alive and making sure the clownfish accept the host anemones. The types of anemones that are suitable for clown fish are Heteractis, Entacmaea and Stiochodactyle anemones.

Clown fish in an aquarium will live in the tentacles on the anemones. They can live in the anemones without getting stung unlike other fish. It is thought the clown fish develop a layer of slim over their skin to protect them from the stings off the anemones. The anemones are used by the clown fish to protect it from predators.

To keep clown fish in an aquarium there are a few things that must be maintained so that the anemones stay alive and your clown fish stay happy. These are good lighting, low nitrate levels, good water movement and food. The most common thing to cause problems for your anemones is high nitrate levels. You need to make sure the level does not go above 15ppm. To help control the levels of nitrates make sure the sand bed base is deep, around 3 inches.

The clown fish in your aquarium need moderate to strong lighting. Make sure the light is on for around 8 hours per day. This will keep the algae inside the host anemones healthy, therefore keeps the clown fish in your aquarium happy.

You should feed clown fish in an aquarium a lot less then you might think, 2 to 3 times a week is sufficient. In fact it is the anemones that you will feed and the clown fish in your aquarium will feed off the anemones leftovers. Anemones will eat jumbo shrimp, large krill or fish.  They can eat fish that are nearly the same size as them; this makes them swell up at first until the food is digested. However when you first introduce the anemones and clown fish in an aquarium do not be alarmed if they do not eat. It can take them a few weeks to settle into their new environment so this can be very common.

Clown fish are social creatures therefore you should keep more than one clown fish in an aquarium. However they can be territorial so it is best to keep clown fish of the same species in your aquarium.

The aquarium only needs to be about 40litres in size as clown fish in an aquarium, like in the sea, do not need much space. It does not matter what size your tank is though as no matter what size the clown fish in your aquarium will only grow to around 3 inches long. Clown fish in an aquarium should have live plants and live sand to keep them happy.

Like all fish from the sea, fish in an aquarium need special salt water in their tank. You will need to do a 10 percent water change weekly and also you will need to test toxin levels weekly. The PH level of your take should be anything between 8.2 and 8.6. Ideally the ammonia levels should be 0 and the nitrite levels should be 0 as well. The best way to achieve this is to make sure you set up your tank and leave it for around a week before adding your fish. This will give the tank chance to go through the natural cycles and all the toxin levels should then be what are needed to keep clown fish in an aquarium.

You do not need a very large filter to keep clown fish in an aquarium happy. A standard filter that comes with your tank will be just fine. The important thing when keeping clown fish in an aquarium is to make sure the water is continuously moving. If it isn’t then the clown fish in your aquarium will become stressed and unhappy as the movement is the same as the sea.

Clown fish in an aquarium will also require a heater. The temperature of the water should be set to around 26 degrees Celsius so that it mimics the sea. Any temperature below 23 degrees Celsius and above 30 degrees Celsius can become dangerous for the clown fish in your aquarium. It can lead to disease and even death.

The best type of clown fish to keep in an aquarium is captive bred clown fish. It is these captive bred clown fish which do not need host anemones to survive in an aquarium. Also this is the best thing for the environment as the number of clown fish in the sea is getting less and less. Captive bred clown fish in an aquarium will also eat flakes and not just live food. Another good thing about captive bred clown fish in an aquarium is that they will live longer as they are less likely to get diseases. The clown fish will love around 10 years in a well kept aquarium.

For help and advice keeping clown fish in an aquarium please feel free to call or visit Perry’s Aquatic Centre. Marine fish such as clown fish are one of our specialities and we will be able to provide you with the knowledge and equipment to get started. Wayne has almost 2 decades of experience with marine fish. We also offer a free water test service and can advise on what to do if your water is not how it should be to keep your clown fish in an aquarium. We guarantee excellent customer service and all our stock is at the best possible prices.

June 6, 2011

Who Else wants to ‘Like’ Perry’s Aquatic Centre on Facebook?

Who Else wants to ‘Like’ Perry’s Aquatic Centre on Facebook?

Perry’s Aquatic Centre are proud to announce we are now Facebook!

perry's aquatci centre on facebook

We invite you to ‘Like’ the page and be the first to know about what’s new at Perry’s Aquatic Centre.

We be posting regular news relating to marine and tropical fish keeping, posting our new videos and helping you with and questions you may have about your aquarium.

We hope you join in and make the page a lively community of fish lovers who can swap tips and tricks to keeping our favorite aquatic pets healthy.

You can follow this link to head directly to our Facebook Page now!

Or if you have any comments or questions you can contact us here!

May 17, 2011

Learn How to Feed and Keep Hard Corals

How to Feed and Keep Hard Corals


With improving technology and a better understanding of what is required hard corals are getting easier to keep in a home aquarium. Hard corals are a lot more colourful then soft corals. They get there name due to the fact that they have a hard skeleton. This skeleton will remain in place even after death.

hard rock There are two types of hard coral, these are LPS and SPS. LPS stands for Large Polyp Stony. SPS stands for Small Polyp Stony. Some people will refer to LPS as meaning Long Polyp Stony. Also some people refer to the S at the end as meaning Scleractinia. So if you hear any of these terms you know they are talking about the same things, hard corals.

The SPS hard corals are proper reef builders. These types of hard corals are usually covered in a thin layer of “skin”. This “skin” is made up of living tissue. The SPS hard coral skeleton will feel heavy and are very dense. The hard corals have calcium carbonate skeletons, which grow to increase surface area. This allows them to have a greater area exposed to light for energy. The water flow will bring them food and wash away any waste off these hard corals.

SPS hard corals will rely heavily on the sunlight. Although very heavy and dense, in a storm these hard corals will break quite easily. However they can withstand huge amounts of normal water movement. If a SPS hard coral is heavily damaged it will still be able to survive. The living tissue on the broken bits of the hard coral will die off. The remaining bits of the hard coral will then re grow.

The broken parts of the hard corals will fuse together with the help of calcium deposits. This then makes a new structure for different hard corals to grow on top of. This natural cycle is one that will help to build a reef.

The LPS commonly live a lot deeper then the SPS hard coral, where it is not as well lit. There is also less water movement in the deeper areas as the LPS cannot withstand as much as the SPS hard corals. The LPS hard corals will use their large polyps to trap their own food. These hard corals often eat at the same time as the fish in the aquarium.

It is said hard corals are harder to keep then soft corals and LPS hard corals are easier to keep then SPS hard corals.

When it comes to water condition all hard corals will need the same levels of chemicals. The PH levels should be around 8.2 to 8.4. Calcium levels should be 425 ppm. Magnesium should be somewhere between 1300 to 1500 ppm. Alkaline levels of 8 DKH. The water temperature should range between 82 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Toxin levels in the water should be 0, or very close to 0. Some of these toxins include ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate.

If the water condition is kept as stated above, there is no reason why soft corals and hard corals can’t all live alongside each other in the same tank.

The reason we say that hard corals are the harder of the two corals to keep alive is because there tolerance is lower. Soft corals are more likely to withstand changes in their environment which are different to those they are used to. Of the hard corals, LPS are more likely to withstand a change in environment. SPS hard corals are not very susceptible to imperfect water conditions. If you can’t provide the premium conditions then the SPS hard corals will die quickly.

The different types of hard coral need different environmental factors to survive so therefore should not be kept together in the same tank. It is not that they couldn’t survive together but that tanks are usually far too small for you to be able to provide different lighting and water movement at the same time. This is why we say don’t keep the different types of hard corals together.

hard rocksLPS hard corals tend to have larger food and require food more frequently. They will have small fish, squid, krill and others alike. They will need feeding around every two to three days. Some SPS hard corals feed off light using photosynthesis. Others will feed off food the fish waste and phytoplankton.

Another reason why you have to be careful when keeping the different types of hard coral together is if the polyps and tissue can touch they will sting each other. This causes the hard corals to release chemicals into your water, or the hard corals in some cases will eat each other. The LPS hard corals have stronger stings and are the more aggressive hard corals. It is not known as to why this is the case. The SPS hard corals are the weaker of the two hard corals and therefore will live closer together in nature. This is why having SPS hard corals in your aquarium is an advantage.

SPS hard corals can now be cultured, so your hard coral collection doesn’t impact on the ocean.

When deciding which hard corals you want in your tank remember that LPS hard corals are more suitable to bigger tanks as they need more space to live in peace with each other. Therefore if you do not have a large tank please do not attempt to keep LPS hard corals as they will not last very long and you will surely be disappointed.

If you are looking for some easy hard corals to get you started then you should consider bubble coral for a LPS and Montipora Capricornis for a SPS. Then after a few months if they are thriving you can add more hard corals to your aquarium. You need to be patient when putting hard corals in your aquarium. Don’t rush and add them all at the same time, the key to success is taking your time.

Perrys Aquatic Centre in Lincoln have experts on hand who will be willing to help with any questions you might have about hard corals or anything else. They offer FREE water testing services. They also have a wide range of stock and will provide excellent customer service.

April 26, 2011

10 Tips for Setting Up a Reef Tank

1. The first and for most important thing when setting up a reef tank is RESEARCH! I cannot stress this point enough. You must read, read and then read some more. You can search the internet or ask the advice of specialist at a Lincoln aquarium or aquatic centre. Also there are many books available on the market which you can purchase. (Check out our selection of aquatic and fish keeping books here) You need to think about what fish it is you want to set up your reef tank with and weather you want live rocks and corals in your reef tank. Once you know what stock you want to set up your reef tank with you can look into how best to care for them and what requirements you need to meet in regards to water condition, temperature, lighting, heating and water movement.

Cleaning a Reef Tank

2. Something just as important as research is patience. Setting up a reef tank takes time, you need to relax and go slow. Many reef tanks go wrong right from the start because people rush into setting up their reef tank. If you do not allow the nitrogen cycle to take place then you will have major problems very early on with the levels of toxins in your reef tank. Also when adding fish and/or live rocks do so in stages and not all at once, let each one get used to the new reef tank and used to each other. This way they are more likely to live together peacefully.

3. A lot of testing is required when setting up a reef tank. The water conditions in your reef tank will determine whether it is going to be a successful set up of a reef tank. Special attention needs to be paid to the levels of all toxins when setting up a reef tank. However if you keep a close eye on the water condition and test it often (around every 3 to 4 days) then it can be very easily maintained. There are many products on the market which can help with controlling the levels of toxins and other things which affect the water condition. You just need to keep on top of it and you won’t go wrong.

4. Water temperature also needs to be correct when setting up a reef tank. The temperature is usually something between 25 and 28 degrees Celsius (75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit). Most tanks will come with a heater that will be sufficient to do this. I recommend placing a thermometer on the inside of the tank so that you can keep a close eye on this and either turn your heater up or down if needed.

5. After you have researched which fish and live rock you will be setting up your reef tank with you will need to know what their light requirements are. Lighting is very important when setting up a reef tank as every species differs greatly and need different intensity of light. This is truer of soft corals which if not given the right amount of light will not survive in your reef tank. They range from needing very little lighting to moderate lighting to needing very strong lighting for photosynthesis. So again I stress the importance of research when setting up a reef tank.

6. Water movements in reef tanks can be gained from filters pumping out water. However some fish and live rocks need more water movement then others just like with lighting. So making sure you have a water pump is a must when setting up a reef tank. This will mimic the movement of the sea and will help keep your reef tank and everything in it a lot happier and healthier for longer.

7. Although filters are a must in all tanks most people do not realise the primary filter is already in your reef tank, live rock. If you have very delicate corals in your reef tank I would suggest staying away from mechanical filtration as these can cause more nitrate in your water. This will stunt growth in your reef tank and may lead to killing the more delicate corals. Another aspect of filtration which is useful to know about is using a deep sand bed. This will help to reduce nitrates and waste within your reef tank.

8. Something people tend to over look when setting up a reef tank is safety. Make sure you use all of your equipment as the manufacturer’s instructions tell you. Whenever it is possible place electrical equipment out of the water. Make sure when setting up a reef tank you always use drip loops as well. If you travel a lot you may also want to consider home monitoring systems. These come with water sensors so can help prevent potential disasters. They give you that bit of extra reassurance that your reef tank is set up safely. Mature Reef Tank

9. When setting up a reef tank many people are under the false impression that the more they feed the faster the tank will grow. This is of course not the case at all. In fact overfeeding can have the opposite effect, it can stunt growth or worse, lead to death. The best thing to do is feed little and often. This will help keep the water condition right which will in turn keep your fish and live rock happy and healthy for longer. It will also make cleaning the tank a lot easier as the amount of waste products in the water will not be as high.

10. Finally, when setting up a reef tank you need to make sure you are committed to cleaning and water changes. A normal set up reef tank should have 10 to 20 percent of the water changed every week. However if you notice the condition of your water is not right then you should do these more frequent until this is resolved. I would suggest doing a 10 to 20 percent water change every 3 days until the water condition is back to an acceptable level.

Perrys Aquatic Centre in Dunholme near Lincoln have experts on hand who will be willing to help with any questions you might have. They offer FREE water testing services. They also have a wide range of stock and provide excellent customer service.

February 17, 2011

Catfish Feeding Frenzy

After the success of last weeks guest blog post, I asked my brother (Webmaster and Internet Marketer extraordinar) if he had any other fish related stories from Bangkok. He told me he had video footage of a Chao Phraya Catfish feeding frenzy. So I asked him to upload the video to the Perry’s Aquatic Youtube Channel, add it to my site and write a little about it.

So here’s the story, morning glory… if you enjoy it or the video, remember to leave a comment below! : ) Thank you!

Catfish Feeding Frenzy on the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok

It was late on a Sunday afternoon and I’d been pounding the pavements of downtown Bangkok (it’s a long way from Lincoln!) for a fair few hours and was in dire need of a drink. As I was heading towards the Central Pier to take a boat home I passed a Wat (a Buddhist Temple) and could see they had some stalls laid out selling food and drink. If you’ve ever been to Asia you now the street food is very tasty and extremely cheap (Wayne doesn’t pay me a lot!) so I doubled back and headed into the courtyard of Wat Worachanyawas.

I got some (arroy) yummy noodles and a cold drink and ambled through the shaded courtyard towards the Chao Phraya River. On reaching the river I walked down a small pier that was unusually busy. Everyone there it seemed had bought a large bowl of fish food and where throwing it into the river. I looked down and there they were… hundreds upon hundreds of Chao Phraya Catfish or Pla Tepa as they are know locally and Pangasius sanitwongse in the Latin (Don’t you love Wikipedia?).

The Chao Phraya Catfish is a freshwater fish that can grow up to 100cm in length and is a member of the shark catfish family. It’s a native species of the mighty Mekong River and the Chao Phraya River and is white to grey in colour with black tips on it’s elongated fins. They also look very hungry and like free food!

So that’s about it! I shot a few minutes of video because I knew Wayne would like it, hope you did too.

Now while Wayne is playing with his Marine and Tropical fish, I’m going to get a cheeky plug in!

I run an Internet marketing company called Blend Local Search Marketing and service clients on 3 continents. Blend work with businesses and brands of all sizes and budgets and simply get them visible online. We implement and manage Internet marketing strategies to find targeted traffic, convert that traffic into customers and all with a high ROI. If you want to get your business seen where your customers are searching – online, or need website design and build, SEO, Social Media, Video or local search marketing click on the logo below to be taken to my website or ask Wayne for my telephone number.

OK, that’s the end of the plug and end of the post! Enjoy the rest of the day! Laa Kawn.

Blend_Local_Search_Marketing

February 10, 2011

Siam Ocean World

Hi Wayne here! I haven’t posted any new articles on Perry’s Aquatic Centre blog for a while, we’ve been too busy in the shop: ) Fortunately my brother who built this website and handles all of our Internet marketing has recently spent a few months in Thailand (lucky sod). He showed me his holiday photos and I asked him if he wouldn’t mind posting some of them on this site as I thought they may be of interest to our loyal readers and new visitors alike. (First of all I asked him to remove all the pictures of the ladyboys… no one need to see them)! Over to to bro…

Sawadee Krab!

Wayne asked me to share a few photos of the amazing fish you can see when you visit Siam Ocean World. So here you go…

Now I don’t know a lot about fish, Wayne is you man on that subject but I know what I like and if you find yourself in Bangkok and want to escape the relentless heat of the day, there is no better place to idle away an afternoon than to head downtown to the Siam Paragon Center and visit this truly amazing aquarium.

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OK I live in central London and the London Sea Life Aquarium is just down the road from me but I’ve never been there, funny that! But as a tourist in Thailand this was a really memorable day and well worth the 900 Baht entrance fee.

The acrylic panels that make up the walls of the aquarium are 6 inches thick and hold in the region of 3000 tons of water. There also the only thing between you and some very mean looking sharks including the bizzar looking Hammerhead sharks.

Ocean World also has a breeding program with over ten different species of sharks, pipefish, sea jellies and seahorses successfully reproducing. If you time your trip right you can witness the feeding frenzy of the sharks, eagle rays and penguins. If you are feeling brave you can also dive and feed these fish yourself!

Click here to take a virtual tour of Siam Ocean World 7 zones.

Hope you enjoyed the photos and remember to visit Perry’s Aquatic Centre for all your under water wordly goods!

Pob kan mai Krab,

MP.

January 7, 2011

Happy New Year from Perry’s Aquatic Centre

Happy New Year

Last year we embraced Internet Marketing and this brought in many new faces into our aquatic centre, some traveling incredibly long distances.

We also made many changes to the shop and changed our stock levels to accommodate the new influx of customers and their needs.

We will continue to grow and provide a high standard or service to each and everyone of our customers.

We consider ourselves extremely fortunate to be working with so many beautiful marine and tropical fish and seeing your faces returning to Perry’s Aquatic Centre throughout 2011.

June 28, 2010

Photo Gallery

Test photo gallery

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June 21, 2010

Fish Food For Thought

In this post we turn our thoughts to food, fish food. It’s important to ensure your marine, tropical fish and corals are getting a rich and diverse source of energy to maintain their health, encourage growth and promote breeding.

In the marine section of Perry’s Aquatic Centre we feed all our marine fish P E mysis shrimp for three days per week the rest of the week we feed those frozen brine shrimp and Cyclop-eeze Freezerbars. This is to provide our marine stock with a varied diet.

When we feed flake or pellet to our fish we feed them with New Era Flake and Ocean Nutrition Prime Reef Flakes. Our tangs and angel fish are also fed on marine algae from Ocean Nutrition.

All our coral systems are fed DT’s Marine Phytoplankton and JBL Coral Fluid on a daily basis. We heavy feed our coral systems to keep all the corals, whether hard or soft, in prime condition ready for resale. In our tropical section we feed all the tropical fish Tetra Pro and JBL Flake Food. Our algae eating fish are fed on Hikari Algae Wafers.

Our pond fish are fed on Hikari Gold Mini Pellets.

All of the fish food products mentioned in this post is available to purchase in store or from our online secure shop here: perrysaquaticscentrelincoln.com/perrys-aquatic-online-superstore/

For more specific information about feeding your fish why not drop by Perry’s Aquatic Centre, we are always on hand to help and advice you. Alternatively if you can’t drive by, leave your comments and query here and we will reply.

May 20, 2010

Fish Feeding Time at Perry’s Aquatic Centre

With so many tropical, marine and cold water fish in stock and not forgetting the live rock, corals and inverts, feeding time a Perry’s Aquatic Centre is a lengthy process.

Milo is a porcupine fish we’ve been looking after in our store for quite some time now. He moves from tank to tank and seems to enjoy the different views and perspectives of a new tank.

We feed him every day but once a week we feed him on cockles with shells. We leave the shells on the shell fish so Milo wares down his beak just as he would in the wild blue yonder. We spray the frozen cockles with New Era Liposome Spray to add essential minerals and vitamins lost in freezing the food source to keep him in a healthy condition.

Porcupine Fish Porcupine Fish Puffer

Milo is quite a messy eater but the other fish that share his tank pick up the scraps over time. We have a short video here for you of Milo being fed by Wayne at Perry’s Aquatic Centre.

For all your food for tropical, marine and cold water fish visit Perry’s for a wide selection of products including JBL Coral Fluid, JBL Flake, JBL Pellets, JBL Plec Wafers, Cockles, Bloodworms, Frozen Brine Shrimp, New Era Flake and Pellets, Liposome Spray and Garlic.

April 27, 2010

Perry’s Aquatic Search Story

Perry’s Aquatic Centre Search Story on Youtube.
How did you find us? Did you find us on the net?
If you did your search story may have looked something like this!
Enjoy the video!!!

April 8, 2010

Live Rock at Perry’s Aquatic Centre!

Live Rock at Perry’s Aquatic Centre!

I’ve just read that title back and it is somewhat ambiguous. Just to make myself perfectly clear – We have NOT got Aerosmith playing in the aquatic centre this weekend. (although that would be awesome) Joe Perry will not even be playing a unplugged acoustic session in the curing house.

No – What I’m referring to when say Live Rock is skeleton coral. Why does it make an excellent natural filteration system in an aquarium set-up? Here’s a video we made earlier that explain all… Walk this way…

Getting to Know Sea Anemones

Perhaps putting corals is one thing that makes an aquarium lovely, especially if you use a sea anemone.  Anemones are actually animals that attach themselves to corals or even rocks. They have stinging cells and these things can paralyze small sea creatures. This is one good defense mechanism for these little babies. There are others who say that crabs and sea anemones share something close to a symbiotic relationship. This is because crabs will eat the small sea creatures that died from the sting and the anemones will eat the scraps of the crab.

Anyway, sea anemones look like flowers. This is why they are dubbed as sea flowers. They come in different colors and shapes and sometimes they may even look like green plants. This is why they are good in hunting because they are mistaken by other fish as harmless. The truth is, these things are predators and they are omnivorous. The hunting style of these creatures is to lie in wait for fish that will pass by and then sting them with their tentacles.

Most of the day, sea anemones are just anchored to rocks. They are considered to be great for starters or beginners for marine aquariums because they are not difficult to maintain. These things are not demanding and all you need to do as an owner is to make sure they get the right amount of food supply and lighting. These are the best things to get if you are serious in pursuing maintenance of marine aquariums. If these sea anemones will survive in your care, then you are ready to take more marine life into your hands.

live rock in saltwater aquarium

What is Live Rock ‘Cured?’

Saltwater Aquarium set ups.

Cure Live rock before putting it in an Aquarium

April 5, 2010

Follow us on Twitter

Tweet Tweet…

twitter Perrys Aquatics

Perry’s Aquatic Centre is now on Twitter – I Twitter you not!

You can find us on twitter.com/PerrysAquatics for the better aquatic tweet experience.

Drop by and show us some underwater love.

You follow me and I’ll follow you, then it’s easy for us to keep in touch with the odd tweet.

April 4, 2010

The Better Aquatic Experience

The Better Aquatic Life

Happy Easter to all our customers over the long Easter weekend.

While you’ve been enjoying the Grand Prix and eating lots of yummy chocolate eggs we’ve been busy in the shop both on and off line.

We’ve got a few new really cool things coming soon so remember to check back or pop into Perry’s Aquatic Centre for updates. (We don’t want to give anything else away here just yet)

Enjoy our new video ‘The Better Aquatic Life’.

Visit our online store and purchase with confidence from Amazon.

Perry’s Aquatic Centre – 6 Market Rasen Rd, Dunholme Lincoln. LN2 3QR

March 12, 2010

Dr. Fish Massage

Don’t Eat the Fish, Let the Fish Eat You

Perry at Dr. Fish Massage

Perry's Aquatic Foot Massage

My brother was recently in South East Asia and came across Dr. Fish Massage in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Here is the video he posted of the pedicure he had by hundreds of Garra Rufa fish.

Apparently fish therapy has high health benefits for people with skin conditions such as ezma and psoriasis.

All we know is that he tells us that it feel like you’re getting tickled, it’s very therapeutic and your feet are very smooth after just 20 minutes.

Dr. Fish Massage

Fish massage in Cambodia

Psoriasis Fish Therapy

The Gift of Education

Want to help Cambodian children with the gift of education? My brother taught English as a conversational language at Savong School near Siem Reap Cambodia. A class of 63 no less. Visit their website and if you have writing materials, books or a laptop computer spare, donate to the school and these bright students in rural Cambodia. Thay are a real inspiration of hope over adversity. Many thanks ; )

March 9, 2010

The Big Fish Eat the Little Fish… & Phytoplankton

Perry’s Aquatic Centre Now Culture Phytoplankton In-store.


Phytoplankton are at the very bottom of the food chain and are consumed by the largest, the majestic blue whale.

They are too small to be individually seen with the naked eye. However, when present in high enough numbers, they may appear as a green discoloration in the water due to the presence of chlorophyll within their cells (although the actual colour may vary with the species of phytoplankton present due to varying levels of chlorophyll or the presence of other pigments they use during photosynthesis)

Phytoplankton are the wanderers of the sea, a microscopic plant-like organisms that live in the worlds oceans. There are numerous species of phytoplankton, each of which has a characteristic shape. Phytoplankton grows abundantly in oceans around the world, and they are the foundation of the food chain, big fish eat the little fish. We humans catch and eat many of these larger fish.

Since phytoplankton depend upon certain conditions for growth, they are a good indicator of change in their environment. For these reasons, and because they also exert a global-scale influence on climate, phytoplankton are of primary interest to oceanographers and scientists around the world.

Phytoplankton-Lincolnshire

Perry’s Aquatic Centre now culture phytoplankton and zoo plankton on the premises. This super-food is essential for creating a natural food source in your aquarium. Keep your live rock, coral and marine fish in the best of health with Perry’s Phytoplankton. See in-store for more details.

Perrys PhytoplanktonPerry culturing planktonPerrys Phyto PlanktonPerrys Phytoplankton

For more information about culturing phyto plankton follow these links-

Featured article on Articlebase

Phytoplankton http://www.melevsreef.com/phytoplankton.html

We are what we eat http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/aug2002/breeder.htm

Phytoplankton starter guide http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=253949

It’s all the small things http://www.marinephytoplankton.moonfruit.com/#/phytoplankton/4515664820

Big Fish Eat the Little Fish

March 6, 2010

Photographic Slide Show of Perry’s Aquatic Centre

We have collected a number of photos over the last 12 months in Perry’s Aquatic centre and thought we would share them with you.
At last we have also got Wayne in front of the camera, so watch out for those videos coming to a screen near you soon (Brad Pitt – look out!)
Let us know which photographs you like best and remember you can download them by clicking on this link. Fish in a bucket.

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