It’s that time of year again,

Yes it’s Christmas. Time to ring in the changes, eat lots of turkey and then relax in front of your aquarium!

We have had another great year at Perry’s Aquatic Centre largely due to your continued support and loyalty. We really appreciate it!: )

We will continue to strive to provide an even better service to you in the New Year. You comments and feedback are most welcome.

If you are looking for some great last minute (fish net) stocking fillers visit our online superstore for aquarium books and accessories. Click here now!

We would like to take this opportunity to wish all our friends, customers and suppliers a Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year.

See you all again soon in 2012,

Wayne ‘Humbug‘ Perry

Here are our opening times during the festive season through to the New Year.

Christmas Eve – Open from 10am – 4pm
Christmas Day – Closed
Boxing Day – Closed
Tuesday 27 December – Closed as usual
Wednesday 28 December- Open as usual until NYE
New Years Eve – Open 10am – 4pm
New Years Day – Closed
Monday 2 January – Closed as usual
Tuesday 3 January -Closed as usual

Wednesday 3 January – Open for Business as usual 2012

Lets be social – Follow us on Twitter and Like us on Facebook

Perry's Aquatic Centre - 6 Market Rasen Road, Dunholme Lincoln LN2 3QR Contact us here.

The Berlin Method of marine filtration was developed in the 1970’s by the Berlin Aquarium Club. The Berlin method of marine filtration is based on the natural system aquarium which was developed by Lee Chin Eng in 1961.

The Berlin method of marine filtration is the method used for keeping your saltwater aquarium clean and maintaining a stable environment. This usually applies to a coral reef set up, but not always it is just the most common.

The Berlin method of marine filtration relies heavily on using a lot of live rock in your aquarium.

The theory behind the Berlin method of filtration is that the aerobic bacterium which covers the exterior of the porous live rock and the deep sand bed will convert the very toxic ammonia into nitrites. Although nitrites are less harmful to your aquarium then ammonia is they are still toxins. The next step in the Berlin method of marine filtration is the nitrates will travel deep into the live rock in your aquarium. Here the nitrites are changed by the anaerobic bacteria into nitrogen gas.

The Berlin method of marine filtration still requires you to do weekly water changes as this will get rid of the rest of the toxins that get left over as the Berlin Method of filtration cannot possibly get rid of all toxins.

A protein skimmer is also still a good idea even when the Berlin Method of marine filtration is in place. This will help to remove some of the left over organic compounds that have dissolved. This then does not give them the chance to breakdown and turn into ammonia.

For the Berlin method of marine filtration to work your tank needs to adhere to certain rules. You could try your own way but why gamble ? A tried and tested method will give you the best results. You should typically use 1 to 2 pounds of live rock to every 4 litres of water in your aquarium. This does depend slightly on the density of the live rock which you are using. If you can’t use so much live rock then you could consider just filling your tank two thirds of the way. This will help the Berlin method of marine filtration to work.

There are four benefits of using live rock alongside the Berlin method of filtration. These are:

1.     The live rock will act as a biological filter inside your aquarium, thus adding beneficial bacteria.

2.     It will introduce a large quantity of marine life into your aquarium. This marine life will be used for food by many fish, corals and invertebrates.

3.     It gives your tank a natural reef look and has lots of places where you can put your corals.

4.     Live rock will naturally help to balance the PH in your aquarium making the PH a lot more stable.

The Berlin method of marine filtration requires very strong lighting. So make sure you research this when purchasing a light, as a weak light will make sure that the Berlin method of filtration will fail in your aquarium.

Calcium supplements are need with the Berlin method of marine filtration. This is done through the use of kalkwasser (limewater). The added bonus of using kalkwasser is that it will lower the amount of phosphates in your aquarium water as well. You must take care when using kalkwasser as it has a very high PH of 12. When using it in the Berlin method of marine filtration you should put it into your tank using a drip at night. This will avoid the PH of your aquarium rising suddenly. It is important not to mix too much at once.

Other calcium supplements can be used in the Berlin method of marine filtration, for example, the two parts balanced solutions.

The Berlin method of filtration also requires trace element supplements, specifically strontium and iodide. Some people also choose to supplement magnesium but this is not a necessity.

Good water movement is also critical in the Berlin method of marine filtration. The life that is kept in salt water aquariums come from the sea. So they are used to very powerful currents, which we are unable to replicate exactly. However we can get close and should try to get it as close as possible for the survival of our aquariums. In the Berlin method of marine filtration the most important reason for good water movement is to move the nitrogenous waste so that the nitrifying and de-nitrifying bacteria can get to it.

Using the Berlin method of marine filtration within an aquarium is fairly easy to set up and to maintain. Especially when using good quality live rock. Your aquarium could be set up within a day. Once you have set up your tank however patience is required, so your tank can take shape and the cycles in your tank can start to take place.

When using the Berlin method of marine filtration you should have your live rock in a loose arrangement so that it allows for good water flow. This helps to prevent wastes settling on your deep sand bed.

Mechanical filtration is considered a major don’t with the Berlin method of marine filtration. It will take out food from your aquarium and is not as effective as a skimmer is.

You need to make sure you still do water changes. These can be done either weekly or monthly. If you do them weekly you should do around 10 percent at a time. If you choose to do them monthly you should do around a 25 percent change. This will keep you water condition like it should be. If when you test your water you notice the toxin levels are more than they should be you should increase the water changes. You will need to do them every 3 to 4 days and around 20 percent each time until the water has returned to normal.

If you would like your water testing for free please visit Perry’s Aquatic Centre. We offer this service along with our professional knowledge. We are ready to give advice and answer any questions you might have.

Perry's Aquatic Centre 6 Market Rasen Road, Dunholme, Lincoln LN2 3QR Tel: 016738 60727

When you are going to use live rock as a filter in your tank you will need to know a bit about the live rock and how it works. This way you will then be able to use the live rock as a filter in the best way possible as you will have all the knowledge you need.

To start with, live rock is not actually alive as you might think. Live rock is actually pieces off a coral reef. They could have been broken off the coral reef by any natural means like a hurricane or a tropical storm.  It is called live rock as it contains living and dead organisms. Examples of these organisms are: algae, marine worms, bacteria and small crustaceans such as crabs. These organisms will make the live rock their home making the rock very beneficial in a tank.

The most important thing about live rock is that it is porous. Being porous makes using live rock as a filter very easy. It is a natural biological filter. You are able to use live rock as a filter because bacteria live on the rock in the tiny holes which the live rock has.

Live rock helps new tank systems in getting set up. They do this as the bacteria living on them help to get rid of the ammonia and evens out the toxins in your water. This then makes it better and easier for the live rock and fish to live in. You will still need to test your water condition regularly though. Using live rock as a filter does not, however, guarantee low toxin levels; it just helps to achieve them. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be 0. The PH of your tank should be between 8.2 and 8.4. The temperature of your tank should be kept between 82 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Keeping the water to these guidelines will keep your live rock healthy, stress free and keep it working as a filter.

When using live rock as a filter the main thing that you need to realise is that you need to keep them healthy and disease free. The live rock is a natural filter so does not need help to become one. However if the live rock becomes ill with a disease or starts to die, its use as a filter will also deteriorate.

Also if you are using live rock as a filter instead of buying one there a few things that you will need to make sure your tank has. The first is pump heads. These are need for the water movement in your tank, as a mechanical filter would have done this job also. The pump heads will keep the water moving and mimic that of the sea. This will mean that you can use live rock as a filter instead of a mechanical one.

Another thing to consider buying if you are planning on using live rock as a filter is a skimmer. A skimmer is a useful thing to have to help with water condition. The skimmer will collect particles from your water in there foam pads. Once it has removed the particles from the water they will start to decompose. Usually with a mechanical filter this decomposition can have a drastic effect on the condition of your water. This will then Increase the amount of ammonia and nitrates. However with a skimmer the particles are kept in a collection cup therefore no matter how much they decompose it will not re enter the water in your tank.

To make sure using live rock as a filter is successful you need to make sure you have enough live rock for the size of your tank. You will need around 1 to 2 pounds of live rock per gallon of water in your tank. This will make sure you have enough live rock so that it works effectively as a filter.

You will need to make sure you feed your live rock correctly in order for it to maintain stress free and thus working effective as your tanks filter. Feeding will differ depending on what type of live rock you are using as your filter. The bacteria living on the live rock will feed off waste products in your tank. Some will feed off the light used in your tank by photosynthesising. Others will need small fish, krill, squid are just a few examples.

Special lighting is needed in your tank to keep live rock as a filter. The lighting also differs depending on which live rock you have in your tank. You should research the different types of live rock and what their individual requirements are for the best results.

Regular water changes are needed when keeping live rock as a filter. I would recommend doing a water change about once a week. This water change should be about 10 to 20 percent. This will help with the water condition and other problems such as algae. If the toxin levels in your water are higher than they should be then completing a water change more often (say around every 3 days) will help to bring this back under control and stop your tank from getting too disrupted.

In conclusion using live rock as a filter is very easy as it does the job naturally on its own. The main problems are keeping the live rock healthy, which is the same problem even if it is not being used as a filter.

If you need any help or advice on using live rock as a filter why not visit Perry’s Aquatic Centre. Here you can talk to professionals with many years of experience. They offer excellent customer service and are always happy to help no matter how big or small the problem might be. They also offer free water testing and will advise if your water condition is not what it should be. They have all the right chemicals to put you on the right track.

A large aquarium containing live plants you saw in the lobby of an office building caused you to start thinking. You felt so relaxed and peaceful while watching the brightly colored fish swimming among the waving plants. You think your family could benefit from having such an aquarium. You have plenty of room for one in your family room. It would not hurt to engage in a little research about setting up a planted aquarium. You need information on the basic materials that go into a tanks and tank maintenance.

A planted aquarium, which has been correctly assembled and well maintained, provides a natural, healthy environment for your tank’s inhabitants. Live plants will lend natural elements to your freshwater aquarium. Your shopping list should include an aquarium, de-chlorinated water or a de-chlorinating additive for tap water, aquarium lighting equipment, pH and hardness test kits, several types of aquatic plants and substrate gravel. When you have your aquarium tank assembled and in a suitable spot in your den, you are ready to add your plants; the following tips might help you with the task of creating your planted aquarium.

1. Purchase an iron-rich, fine-grained substrate of high quality. This particular choice is one of the most important that you will need to make. The foundation of any healthy aquarium is the substrate. This is especially true in the case of a planted aquarium. Purchase the best that you can find. The nutrients for many of your plants will come from the substrate.

2. Place 3 inches of substrate on the bottom of your tank. The bottom layer should be fluorite gravel, which will offer iron and other nutrients. Add regular aquarium gravel to cover the first layer. Use finer-grained gravel to cover the substrate in the tank, and then finish with sand or very fine gravel. Other people’s experiences indicate that you will need 1.5 to 2 pounds of substrate for every gallon of water.

3. Carefully add de-chlorinated water or tap water treated with a de-chlorinating additive to the tank. If you have any qualms about the quality of your tap water, use distilled water from an aquarium store. If you think that pouring water into the tank will displace any of the gravel, sita small plate on the bottom of the tank and pour the water onto the plate. Pour enough water in the tank to bring it to within one or two inches of the rim of the aquarium. This should leave enough room to add your decorative rocks and other baubles.

4. Heater and filtration systems probably came with the tank when you bought your aquarium package. It’s time to add the heater and filtration systems to the tank if you haven’t already done so. Be sure to use an external filter designed to hang on the side of the tank. If the filter included in your package is not an external filter, you need to exchange it. Under-gravel filters are not recommended for use in aquariums containing plants. Set the thermostat on the heater between 72 to 82 degrees.

5. Using the test kit to check the pH and hardness of water make the necessary adjustments in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The pH should run between 6.5 and 7.5. You may need to add a water conditioner to achieve the recommended pH level.

6. The light attachment usually included with aquarium packages is not strong enough for your plants. Your aquarium requires 2 to 3 watts for each gallon of water. A 55-gallon aquarium needs at least 110 watts of lighting. Increase the wattage according to the size of your tank. When setting up a planted aquarium, full-spectrum compact fluorescent lights are preferred.

7. Oh boy! Now it’s time to select the plants for your aquarium. Consult with the experts in your aquarium supply store for recommendations of plants which will flourish. If this is your first planted aquarium, use all the help you can get. Pick out an assortment of plant sizes and varieties. You have a choice among the different types of available aquatic plants: rosettes, floating plants, bulbs, stem plants and rhizomes (ferns and mosses).

8. On a table or the floor, make a pleasing arrangement by placing the tallest plants in the back and the shortest plants toward the front. You can play with the placement until you have an arrangement that you like. Putting a few shorter plants in the back will look more natural and give an illusion of depth.

9. When you decide that you like the arrangement, add the plants to the tank. Your experts told you all you need to know, so you are familiar with your plant varieties. To help the stem plants take root in the substrate, use special weights from the aquarium store, rock or driftwood. Set your rosette plants by burying the roots in the substrate exposing a little of the root. Plant the rhizomes as deeply as possible leaving no exposed root. Tubers and bulbs do best when they sit with half the bulb visible. Use aquarium weights as recommended to hold all of these varieties in place until they are established in their new habitat.

10. Your aquarium plants will need to be fed, and one essential constituent is carbon. Give your plants a few weeks to get established. By this time they will require nutrients on a regular basis. Plenty of supplements are available commercially, however, adding a couple of fish to your aquarium can provide some of these nutrients. Check with your aquarium experts on the feasibility of adding fish.

The novelty of the aquarium has worn off, and it is time to face the realization that a little maintenance comes with your aquarium. De-chlorinated water must be added to the tank occasionally. Search the internet, or consult with your new best friends at the aquarium store, for information about maintaining aquariums.

Your spouse has mentioned that she would like to have a pond in the garden. The weekend has arrived so you can occupy your time by building a pond. How hard can it be to dig a hole and fill it with water? You have visited the local gardening shop to pick up some information on building ponds and landscaping. You’ve looked over the information and believe you are ready to get your shovel and start digging. If you’re lucky, your helpmate will stick around to help.

1. Measure the area for your pond. When digging the hole for the pond, make it a little larger than measured to allow for several layers of lining materials. Sloping sides rather than steep will ensure that your lining materials won’t slide out of position. Use a thin layer of sand or underlay on all sides of the hole before adding the liner. Doing so will stop stones or roots from tearing holes in the liner and causing leaks.

2. Make several small holes in the bottom of the pond before adding the underlay and liner. These holes mark the spots where you want to set plants. Add the underlay and liner then set the plants, still in pots, into the small holes. Cover the bottom of the pond with a layer of prewashed river sand. The last layer to be added to the pond is a layer of pebbles to cover the sand. Your plants look as though they are actually planted in the pond. No one is aware that you were too lazy to take the plants out of the pots.

3. To make the pond look as though a natural rock barrier is holding the water in the pond, build a shelf rimming the pond. Create a ledge around the edge of the pond about 3 inches below the desired water level. Add the rocks and backfill with soil. Now it looks like a natural pond.

4. If you like to watch wildlife, create a sand covered beach on one area side of the pond. The beach should have a gradual slope into the water where the wildlife can access the water. Try to provide an area where birds have a view from the beach and can see if the neighbor’s cat is sneaking up on them.

5. The secret to building a really durable pond is to plaster the liner with 1 to 1.25 inches of mortar. A mix of 1 part cement,1 part building sand and 2 parts river sand add a waterproofing agent. Make the mix pliable by using only enough water so you can work the mixture. You will need to line the pond with this mixture in one go. If you stop after beginning to spread the mixture over the pond lining then start again, you will create a weak spot in the lining.

6. To build a durable pond that will not leak, use mortar to line the pond and take these extra precautions. Different materials expand and contract at different rates. Over time, cracks will appear between the rocks and mortar on the rim of the pond, and eventually leaks will occur. You can build a pond for your garden with natural rock that won’t crack.

After applying the mortar to the pond lining, spread a thick layer of mortar on the ledge where the rocks are to be placed. Next lay plastic wrap over the mortar and place the rocks on the plastic pushing down firmly on each rock to imprint the shape of the rocks into the mortar. Take away the rocks and plastic after giving the mortar a chance to dry. Store the rocks in sequential order so that you can put them back in the same order.

Spread a nontoxic silicone sealant over the mortar and place each rock in its own imprint. Noone will be able to see the seal. If you don’t use a nontoxic sealant, any fish you introduce to the pond will die.

The rocks are now permanently affixed, and the pond is leak free. Wait until the silicone is completely dry before you add water to the pond. This method takes a lot of patience, but is worth doing.

7. If you are installing a fountain, you need a pump that is the recommended size for your pond. When picking out a pump for your pond, considering buying one a size larger than you need. You can reduce the flow if it’s too fast. If you get a pump and the flow is too slow, you cannot increase the flow. Use a piece of nylon stocking, or double folded cheesecloth, over the pump intake. This will prevent dirt getting into the pump. This will extend the life of your pump. Check the piece of fabric often and replace as needed.

8. You might want to place a piece of decorative statuary or large plant in front of your ugly pump. If your wife has to look at the unsightly pump, she won’t be happy. It will cancel out the natural look of her garden pond. Consider camouflaging the water outlet by letting the water bubble from under some pebbles.

9. To make the pond look more natural, use three different sizes of pebbles. You can place a few bigger rocks randomly in the pond. A nice rock sticking above the water will give birds a spot to land.

10. Your pond will remain healthy if you add water every couple of weeks. You can add an overflow area by digging a hole and lining it with an extra piece of pond liner. Using a pitch fork, punch some holes in the lining and fill the hole with bog material.

Perhaps you and your wife can sit in her romantic garden and dream about future projects for the garden, or how about building a pond in front of the house?

For more information about building a pond for your garden, or if you require pond plants and fish contact Wayne at Perry’s Aquatic Centre near Lincoln. He has over 20 years experience of fish keeping and is always happy to help.